Miu Miu has emerged as a breakout sensation in a fashion era where competition is cutthroat, and trends shift faster than a Paris runway. Once known as the “little sister” to Prada, the brand has undergone a radical transformation, achieving explosive growth that has left industry experts, competitors, and fashion enthusiasts alike wondering: How did Miu Miu accomplish this? Growth numbers that include an impressive 89% Q1 2024 year-on-year increase in revenues, not to mention that such a market player is now contributing to more than a quarter of the Prada Group’s revenues, the young brand is effectively redefining the rules that adorn the concept of a contemporary luxury brand.
Nevertheless, what’s driving this explosive growth? And more importantly, what lessons can other brands learn from the “Miu Miu Effect”?
Miu Miu has evolved for the better during the pandemic, during which the brand began reinventing itself under the stewardship of its new CEO, Benedetta Petruzzo, and the genius creativity of Miuccia Prada. The brand’s approach became more inclusive, moving away from being merely Prada’s youthful counterpart to offering a style that appeals to a broader audience. The runway shows became a statement of this shift. Featuring clientele ranging from Gigi Hadid to Kristin Scott Thomas, Miu Miu’s collections embraced every stage of life, speaking to a broad spectrum of young and old customers.
“You can choose what you wear,” said Miuccia Prada. “I have to decide every morning if I am going to dress as I was as a 15-year-old girl or the lady I am today.” This sense of freedom and fluidity is at the heart of Miu Miu’s renewed vision. The brand’s strategy revolves around psychographics rather than demographics, focusing on a youthful attitude rather than age. This flexibility of approach has helped Miu Miu expand its appeal worldwide, particularly in Asia, where idols of Korean pop music and other famous actresses are ambassadors. Therefore, Miu Miu has grown tremendously, with the revenues in 2023 standing at 58% and further improving in the first quarter of 2024 by 89%, making it one of the fastest-growing brands within the Prada Group umbrella.
While it may seem that Miu Miu is an equal opportunities company, objectifying women and being ‘for everyone’, the power that consumers find attractive is in the daring and specific design of the clothing that makes consumers crave the entire ensemble. Thanks to the influence of stylist Lotta Volkova, Miu Miu has mastered the art of “full-look” dressing—where each piece of a set of clothes as well as accessories and even shoes look as if they were specially made for one another. This approach has proven effective in both creating desire and driving sales. “Customers are buying across the brand to create looks rather than focusing on individual items,” says Richard Johnson, chief commercial and sustainability officer at Mytheresa.
At the same time, Miu Miu has successfully ensured that the company stays abreast of various micro-trends such as balletcore and librarian chic, which appeal to the youth. These trends feel authentic to Miu Miu’s playful and ever-changing identity, making it a go-to brand for those looking to stay ahead of fashion’s ever-evolving curve. As fashion commentator Tariro Makoni notes, “Miu Miu’s superpower is its youthfulness.” Indeed, the brand’s dynamism and ability to stay relevant in current conversations, social media, and the pages of glamorous magazines remains a powerful driver in the constant evolution of the luxury fashion brand.
As Miu Miu is constructing its unique image with the help of creative direction and viral products, it has a rather stable business plan in place. Miu Miu, a wholly owned subsidiary by Prada Group, has received strategic investments in communication, product, and distribution since 2017. The change in strategy came in 2020 with the appointment of new CEO Benedetta Petruzzo, affirming that Miu Miu would be a focused brand for development. “To achieve a proper position in this industry by Miu Miu is a proper objective,” Prada CEO Andrea Guerra remarked.
Partial reverse globalization and brand image alignment with traditional values are two key factors that have fueled this strategic growth. Miu Miu has adjusted to the changing global landscape by concentrating on local areas such as Asia, where consumer behavior has a big impact on worldwide trends. Miu Miu has been able to attract new and returning clients by associating its brand image with more conventional, universal ideals of luxury, such as superior craftsmanship and exclusivity. Miu Miu’s positioning is culturally relevant and current, especially in areas like China, where luxury is generally connected with heritage and quality.
The question that arises in this respect concerns the ability of Miu Miu to sustain such an unprecedented growth rate. While executives are cautious about being able to maintain such high growth rates over the long term, the fact that the brand is poised for healthy growth across almost all segments, especially leather accessories, might augur well for the company.“Customer interest is healthy across many categories, not isolated to ‘it’ items, so the future looks very sustainable,” says Johnson of Mytheresa.
However, there are risks. In the words of Luca Solca, a senior analyst with Bernstein, the fashion world is littered with brands that rose quickly, only to fade away just as fast. Brands like Chloé, Givenchy, and Celine have all had moments in the sun, only to face challenges in maintaining that initial burst of success. The key for Miu Miu will be to keep evolving while staying true to its core identity.
Beyond merely providing an example of fashion success, the “Miu Miu Effect” conveys valuable lessons about maneuvering the intricacies of the modern luxury market. Through adaptability and a recognition of local and global factors, Miu Miu has carved out a unique space for itself. It has shown that a brand can be youthful yet sophisticated, trend-driven yet timeless. As the brand continues to redefine its path, it will be watched closely by an industry eager to learn from its successes—and perhaps, replicate them.
Miu Miu isn’t just selling clothes; it’s selling a mindset, a lifestyle, and a sense of belonging in an ever-changing world. And as long as it continues to do so, the Miu Miu effect is here to stay.
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